Apologies for the disappearance of my site for well over a day. On trying to improve my site – I managed to wipe out my database. I thank Dan at d9 hosting for getting me out of a pickle. I’m only glad I hadn’t decided to remove my back up files. Otherwise I would be even further up the stream without a paddle!  As they say in this part of the world!

Here is a Question posed at www.woodworkingtalk.com – my answer’s below.

When considering the finishing of teak, quite clearly it is important to be aware of it’s physical properties.

I have taken this article from eHow and  hope you find this of some interest. I have lightly edited and added  my personal recommendation and comments in bold italics.

GLASSPAPER

Originally, glasspaper must have been one of the first recyclable products. Made from crushed glass bottles, it played an important role for finishing bare wood. And at that time, served the woodworker and finisher better than flint.
However, due to the limitation of the material – the grain isn’t that consistent in size – nor is it predictable in it’s behaviour when used. The uneven grade and strength of the grains can cause uneven scratches in wood.  For this reason it is more suitable for general everyday use than fine work.

GLASSPAPER

Originally,  glasspaper  must have been one of the first recyclable products.  Made from crushed glass bottles, it played an important role for finishing bare wood.  And at that time, served the woodworker and finisher better than flint.  As you can imagine, it is much stronger than flint.

PREPARING WOOD

As has been mentioned in the introduction,  there is quite a variety of abrasive papers.  One that has been the staple of local hardware stores  and corner shop is -

In writing the post below, I’ve restricted myself to the type  of abrasive papers that are relevant to the keen hobbiest and enthusiast.  It’s important that the right type of paper is used, because, it will save you time and money and your nerves!